Nanotechnology-Based Approaches for Cosmeceutical and Skin Care: A Systematic Review.

Cosmeceuticals have gained great importance and are among the top-selling products used for skin care. Because of changing lifestyles, climate, and increasing pollution, cosmeceuticals are utilized by every individual, thereby making cosmeceuticals a fruitful field for research and the economy. Cosmeceuticals provide incredibly pleasing aesthetic results by fusing the qualities of both cosmetics and medicinal substances. Cosmeceuticals are primarily utilized to improve the appearance of skin by making it smoother, moisturized, and wrinkle-free, in addition to treating dermatological conditions, including photoaging, burns, dandruff, acne, eczema, and erythema. Nanocosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that combine therapeutic effects utilizing nanotechnology, allowing for more precise and effective target-specific delivery of active ingredients, and improving bioavailability.

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro.

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural.

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Phyto-cosmeceutical gel containing curcumin and quercetin loaded mixed micelles for improved anti-oxidant and photoprotective activity.

Ultra Violet radiations induced skin damage and associated skin disorders are a widespread concern. The consequences of sun exposure include a plethora of dermal conditions like aging, solar urticaria, albinism and cancer. Sunscreens provide effective protection to skin from these damages. Besides FDA approved physical and chemical UV filters, phytoconstituents with their multi functionalities are emerging as frontrunners in Therapy of skin disorders. Objective of this study was to develop novel phyto-dermal gel (PDG) with dual action of sun protection and antioxidant potential using polymeric mixed micelles (PMMs) are nanocarriers. PMMs of Pluronic F127 and Pluronic F68 loaded with curcumin and quercetin were optimized by 32 factorial designs. Responses studied were vesicle size, SPF, entrapment efficiency of curcumin and quercetin and antioxidant activity. Droplet size ranged from 300 to 500 nm with PDI in between 0.248 and 0.584. Combination of curcumin and quercetin showed enhanced sun protection and antioxidant activity. Pluronics played a significant positive role in various parameters. In present studies vesicle size of factorial batches was found to be between 387 and 527 nm, and SPF was found to be between 18.86 and 28.32. Transmission electron microscopy revealed spherical morphology of micelles. Optimized micelles were incorporated into Carbopol 940. Optimized PDG was evaluated for pH, drug content, spreadability, rheology, syneresis, ex vivo permeation, and skin retention. Hysteresis loop in the rheogram suggested thixotropy of PDG. Syneresis for gels from day 0-30 days was found to be between 0% and 12.46% w/w. SPF of optimized PDG was 27±0.5. Optimized PDG showed no signs of erythema and edema on Wistar rats. PMMs thus effectively enhanced antioxidant and skin protective effect of curcumin and quercetin.

Polysaccharides from shell waste of shellfish and their applications in the cosmeceutical industry: A review.

Shell waste from shellfish processing contains valuable natural polysaccharides, including sulfated polysaccharides, acidic polysaccharides, glycosaminoglycans, chitin and their derivatives. These shellfish waste-derived polysaccharides have numerous functional and biological properties that can be applied in various industries, including the cosmeceutical industry. In keeping with global sustainability and green industry trends, the cosmeceuticals industry is transitioning from petrochemical-based ingredients to natural substitutes. In this context, shell waste-derived polysaccharides and their derivatives can play a major role as natural substitutes for petroleum-based components in various cosmeceutical skincare, hair care, oral care and body care products. This review focuses on the presence of polysaccharides and their derivatives in shell waste and discusses their various cosmeceutical applications in skin care, hair care, sun care, oral care and body care products. This indicates that shell waste utilization will help create a circular economy in which extracted polysaccharides are used to produce green cosmeceutical products.

Nanocosmeceuticals: Trends and Recent Advancements in Self Care.

The term cosmetics refers to any substances or products intended for external application on the skin with the aim of protection and better appearance of the skin surface. The skin delivery system promotes the controlled and targeted delivery of active ingredients. The development of this system has been driven by challenges encountered with conventional cosmeceuticals, including low skin retention of active components, limited percutaneous penetration, poor water dispersion of insoluble active ingredients, and instability of effective components. The aim is to create cosmeceuticals that can effectively overcome these issues. This review focuses on various nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals currently and their applications in skin care, hair care, oral care, and more. The importance of nanotechnology in the sphere of research and development is growing. It provides solutions to various problems faced by conventional technologies, methods, and product formulations thus taking hold of the cosmetic industry as well. Nowadays, consumers are investing in cosmetics only for better appearance thus problems like wrinkles, ageing, hair loss, and dandruff requires to be answered proficiently. Nanocarriers not only enhance the efficacy of cosmeceutical products, providing better and longer-lasting effects, but they also contribute to the improved aesthetic appearance of the products. This dual benefit not only enhances the final quality and efficacy of the product but also increases consumer satisfaction. Additionally, nanocarriers offer protection against UV rays, further adding to the overall benefits of the cosmeceutical product. Figure 1 represents various advantages of nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals. Nanotechnology is also gaining importance due to their high penetration of actives in the deeper layers of skin. It can be said that nanotechnology is taking over all the drawbacks of the traditional products. Thus, nanocarriers discussed in this review are used in nanotechnology to deliver the active ingredient of the cosmeceutical product to the desired site.

Using 3% retinol peeling and cosmeceuticals for the aesthetic wellness of the oncological patient after precautionary endocrine treatment: A case series.

BACKGROUND: Roughness, sagging, and skin rash are common in patients with breast cancer treated with LH-RH analog plus tamoxifen or aromatase inhibitors as adjuvant postsurgical endocrine therapy. The use of topical retinol (vitamin A) has shown to be an efficacious cosmetic treatment. AIMS: Peeling with an advanced retinol peel formulation based on 3% retinol, 4% triethyl citrate, 0.1% aminophil, bisabolol, and 1% vitamin E acetate, in a vehicle in an alcoholic solution has been successfully used to ameliorate skin appearance on subjects with photodamage and in the aged population. We aimed to verify its use during adjuvant chemotherapy. PATIENTS: Four subjects experiencing skin issues during postsurgical adjuvant therapy for their breast cancer received retinol peel at least 6 weeks after stopping their postsurgery therapy as a low invasive aesthetic medical treatment to be used both at the dermatology desk and at home. RESULTS: Retinol peel was effective, safe, and well-tolerated, improving skin brightness and firmness in all the patients, since 4 weeks after the beginning of the treatment. Patients declared to be satisfied with the treatment and their skin appearance letting them feel better for cancer recovery, too. CONCLUSION: These preliminary observations suggest that the use of an advanced retinol peel formulation might improve skin appearance in women experiencing skin damages caused by adjuvant therapy after breast cancer surgery.

A Compound Essential Oil Alters Stratum Corneum Structure, Potentially Promoting the Transdermal Permeation of Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Ingredients.

BACKGROUND: The stratum corneum (SC) is the main barrier of the skin, and cosmeceuticals are different from ordinary cosmetics in that they need to deliver active ingredients targeting specific skin problems through the SC into the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, we designed a compound essential oil (CEO) extracted from Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge and Cinnamomum cassia Presl, supplemented with borneol to deliver active ingredients through the SC. METHODS: The CEO was prepared by flash extraction combined with the microwave method. Moreover, the main components of the CEO were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS). Visualization techniques, such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM), haematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), were used to study the permeationpromoting mechanism of the CEO on the skin. Furthermore, the permeation-promoting effects of the CEO on both hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients were tested via in vitro skin penetration experiments and in vivo microdialysis experiments. RESULTS: The results indicated the ability of the CEO to alter the structure of the SC, leading to enhanced transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. The 1.5% CEO group demonstrated the best permeation-promoting effect compared to the other CEO groups and blank groups (P<0.05). Furthermore, the CEO displayed an expedited permeability-promoting effect on hydrophobic ingredients compared to hydrophilic ingredients. CONCLUSION: It is concluded that the prepared CEO can promote the transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. This study will provide a reference for the application of the prepared CEO in the development of cosmeceuticals with natural efficacy.

Potential role of the cell-penetrating peptide-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2-patterned peptide in novel cosmeceutical skin product development.

AIM: This study aimed to investigate and verify the effect of cell-penetrating peptide (CPP)-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2)-patterned peptide (INCI name: Acetyl sh-Oligopeptide-26 sh-Oligopeptide-27 SP, trade name: M.Biome-BT) on improving skin function in vitro. METHODS: The cytotoxicity of CPP-conjugated SNARE motif of VAMP2-patterned peptide (CVP) was investigated using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay against B16-F10 cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a reconstructed skin irritation test. The anti-wrinkle activity of M.Biome-BT was determined by assessing the release of norepinephrine and dopamine in PC-12 cells via ELISA. The skin-whitening effects of CVP were assessed in B16-F10 cells by measuring the intra- and extracellular melanin contents and expression levels of melanin production-related genes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. RESULTS: CVP is not cytotoxic to B16-F10 cells and HDFs, and no skin irritation was observed. CVP treatment considerably diminished K+ -induced norepinephrine and dopamine secretion compared with the non-treated control group (62% and 40%, respectively). Additionally, the inhibition ability of CVP on norepinephrine and dopamine release was comparable to that of botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT/A). CVP also increased intracellular melanin content in a dose-dependent manner, whereas extracellular melanin content decreased (76%-85%). However, CVP treatment did not affect the mRNA expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. These results suggest that CVP does not inhibit melanin production; however, it may induce a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin transport. CONCLUSIONS: Taken together, our findings indicate that CVP could be used as an active and safe cosmeceutical ingredient for antiaging applications.

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne.

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Plants with cosmetic uses.

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Layered double hydroxides and their tailored hybrids/composites: Progressive trends for delivery of natural/synthetic-drug/cosmetic biomolecules.

Layered double hydroxides (LDHs) are well-known and important class of hydrotalcite-type anionic clays (HTs) materials that are cost-effective with additional advantages of facile synthesis, composition, tenability, and reusability. These convincing characteristics are liable for their applications in various fields related to energy, environment, catalysis, biomedical, and biotechnology. HTs/LDHs are generally synthesized from low cost abundantly available chemical precursors through the aqueous synthetic pathways under mild reaction conditions. These materials can be termed green materials based on their non-toxic nature, availability of precursors, facile and low-cost production using aqueous medium conditions with less hazardous effluents. Diverse and fascinating characteristics have been attributed to HTs/LDHs like anion exchange ability, surface basicity, biocompatibility, controlled release of the anion specific area, porosity, easy surface modification, and pH dependent biodegradability. Hence, HTs/LDHs and their modified and/or functionalized nanohybrids/nanocomposites are reported as the potential drug delivery carriers with a capability to stabilize the susceptible bioactive molecules, may enhance the solubility of poorly soluble drugs along with controlled drug/bioactive molecule release and delivery. These clay and bioactive hybrid materials have good biocompatibility, less cytotoxicity, and better site-targeting with improved cellular uptake than that of free parent biomolecules. These lamellar solids of micro/nanostructure are compatible, host-guest materials and able to fabricate with drugs/cosmeceutical/bio- or synthetic polymers without any change in their molecular structure and reactivity along with improvement in their stabilities. Other important features are facile synthesis, basicity, high stability with easy storage, and efficient administration with low bio-toxicity. This study enlightens the applications of HTs/LDHs along with their hybrids/composites in the field of drug/cosmeceutical/gene delivery systems of natural/synthetic biomolecules.

LC-MS profiling-based non-targeted secondary metabolite screening for deciphering cosmeceutical potential of Malaysian algae.

BACKGROUND: Application of natural resources from the marine environment in the cosmeceutical industry is gaining great attention. AIM: This study pursues to discover the cosmeceutical potential of two Malaysian algae, Sargassum sp. and Kappaphycus sp. by determining their antioxidant capacity and assessing the presence of their secondary metabolites with cosmeceutical potential using non-targeted metabolite profiling. METHODS: Metabolite profiling using Quadrupole Time-of-Flight (Q-TOF) liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) in the Electrospray Ionization (ESI) mode resulted in 110 putative metabolites in Sargassum sp. and 47 putative metabolites in Kappaphycus sp. and were grouped according to their functions. To the best of our knowledge, the bioactive compounds of both algae have not been studied in any great detail. This is the first report to explore their cosmeceutical potential. RESULTS: Six antioxidants were detected in Sargassum sp., including fucoxanthin, (3S, 4R, 3'R)-4-Hydroxyalloxanthin, enzacamene N-stearoyl valine, 2-hydroxy-hexadecanoic acid, and metalloporphyrins. Meanwhile, three antioxidants detected in Kappahycus sp., namely Tanacetol A, 2-fluoro palmitic acid and idebenone metabolites. Three antioxidants are found in both algae species, namely, 3-tert-Butyl-5-methylcatechol, (-)-isoamijiol, and (6S)-dehydrovomifoliol. Anti-inflammatory metabolites such as 5(R)-HETE, protoverine, phytosphingosine, 4,5-Leukotriene-A4, and 5Z-octadecenoic acid were also found in both species. Sargassum sp. possesses higher antioxidant capacity as compared to Kappahycus sp. which may be linked to its number of antioxidant compounds found through LC-MS. CONCLUSIONS: Hence, our results conclude that Malaysian Sargassum sp. and Kappaphycus sp. are potential natural cosmeceutical ingredients as we aim to produce algae cosmeceutical products using native algae.

Formulation, characterization of Quercus infectoria (Olivier) emulsions, and in vitro, in vivo evaluation as cosmeceutical formulation.

BACKGROUND: Pharmacological properties of Quercus infectoria Olivier (galls) have been determined to be astringent, antidiabetic, antipyretic, anti-tremor, local anesthetic, and anti-parkinsonism. The galls of Quercus infectoria have been used for millennia in traditional oriental medicine in Asian nations to treat inflammatory illnesses. AIMS: The study's objective was to create a Quercus infectoria Olivier gall extract in stable water in oil (w/o) emulsion and to check its effects on the mechanical properties of skin and antiaging effects. METHOD: The galls were macerated in absolute methanol. Quercus infectoria Olivier gall extract's antioxidant property was evaluated using the 2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) technique. Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, KOH, glycerin, and distilled water were used to create the emulsion. The test (with extract) and control (without extract) emulsions were made, respectively, using the same process. Stability tests (color, liquefaction, microscopy, phase separation, and pH) are performed in in vitro, lasted 72 days at four distinct storage temperatures that is 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C + 75% RH for both the control and test formulations. By using spectrophotometry, the (SPF) sun protection factors of the two formulations were calculated at various concentrations. Extract from Quercus infectoria underwent phytochemical investigation as well. RESULTS: The results showed that Quercus infectoria Olivier has antioxidant and (SPF) sun protection properties, reduce sebum, increases elasticity and stable emulsion containing 04% Quercus infectoria gall extract which might be used as topical antiaging formulation.

Standardized Extract from Wastes of Edible Flowers and Snail Mucus Ameliorate Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Keratinocytes.

Several studies have highlighted the ability of snail mucus in maintaining healthy skin conditions due to its emollient, regenerative, and protective properties. In particular, mucus derived from Helix aspersa muller has already been reported to have beneficial properties such as antimicrobial activity and wound repair capacity. In order to enhance the beneficial effects of snail mucus, a formulation enriched with antioxidant compounds derived from edible flower waste (Acmella oleracea L., Centaurea cyanus L., Tagetes erecta L., Calendula officinalis L., and Moringa oleifera Lam.) was obtained. UVB damage was used as a model to investigate in vitro the cytoprotective effects of snail mucus and edible flower extract. Results demonstrated that polyphenols from the flower waste extract boosted the antioxidant activity of snail mucus, providing cytoprotective effects in keratinocytes exposed to UVB radiation. Additionally, glutathione content, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and lipid peroxidation levels were reduced following the combined treatment with snail mucus and edible flower waste extract. We demonstrated that flower waste can be considered a valid candidate for cosmeceutical applications due to its potent antioxidant activity. Thus, a new formulation of snail mucus enriched in extracts of edible flower waste could be useful to design innovative and sustainable broadband natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions.

Purpose: This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil. Methods: G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties. Results: G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects. Conclusion: G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Nanocrystals in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals by topical delivery.

The main issues with local delivery of cosmetics are their high sensitivity and limited drug loading of active pharmaceutical ingredient. Nanocrystal technology offers consumers cutting-edge and effective products and exhibits enormous development potential in the beauty business as a new delivery method to address the issue of low solubility and low permeability of sensitive chemicals. In this review, we described the processes for making NCs, along with the impacts of loading and the uses of different carriers. Among them, nanocrystalline loaded gel and emulsion are widely used and may further improve the stability of the system. Then, we introduced the beauty efficacy of drug NCs from five aspects: anti-inflammation and acne, anti-bacterial, lightening and freckle removal, anti-aging as well as UV protection. Following that, we presented the current scenario about stability and safety. Finally, the challenges and vacancy were discussed along with the potential uses of NCs in the cosmetics industry. This review serves as a resource for the advancement of nanocrystal technology in the cosmetics sector.

Tripeptides conjugated with thiosemicarbazones: new inhibitors of tyrosinase for cosmeceutical use.

The development of skin-care products is recently growing. Cosmetic formulas containing active ingredients with proven efficacy, namely cosmeceuticals, are based on various compounds, including peptides. Different whitening agents featuring anti-tyrosinase activity have been applied in the cosmeceutical field. Despite their availability, their applicability is often limited due to several drawbacks including toxicity, lack of stability, and other factors. In this work, we present the inhibitory effect on diphenolase activity of thiosemicarbazone (TSC)-peptide conjugates. Tripeptides FFY, FWY, and FYY were conjugated with three TSCs bearing one or two aromatic rings via amide bond formation in a solid phase. Compounds were then examined as tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitors in murine melanoma B16F0 cell line, followed by the cytotoxicity assays of these cells. In silico investigations explained the differences in the activity, observed among tested compounds. Mushroom tyrosinase was inhibited by TSC1-conjugates at micromolar level, with IC50 lower than this for kojic acid, a widely used reference compound. Up to now, this is the first report regarding thiosemicarbazones conjugated with tripeptides, synthesised for the purpose of tyrosinase inhibition.

Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review.

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model.

The nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investigated. The in vitro culture conditions used favoured the fusiform morphotype, characterized by a high accumulation of neutral lipids, as detected by fluorescence microscopy after BODIPY staining. These data were confirmed by HPLC-DAD-APCI-MS/MS analyses carried out on the ethanolic extract (PTE), which showed a high content of xanthophylls (98.99%), and in particular of fucoxanthin (Fx, 6.67 g/100 g PTE). The antioxidant activity (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and ß-carotene bleaching) and photostability of PTE and Fx against UVA and UVB rays were firstly evaluated by in vitro cell-free assays. After this, phototoxicity and photoprotective studies were carried out on in vitro reconstructed human epidermidis models. Results demonstrated that PTE (0.1% Fx) and 0.1% Fx, both photostable, significantly (p < 0.05) reduce oxidative and inflammatory stress markers (ROS, NO and IL-1α), as well as cytotoxicity and sunburn cells induced by UVA and UVB doses simulating the solar radiation, with an excellent safety profile. However, PTE proved to be more effective than Fx, suggesting its effective and safe use in broad-spectrum sunscreens.